![]() ![]() Give it a gentle twist with a pair of pliers if it isn’t. (1) Check the metal cap on top of the spark plug and make sure it is tight. If there isn’t any spark visible when kicking the engine over, follow these steps: Jeremy McGrath’s CR250 two-stroke started every time because he was the King. It’s not enough to hurt you, but it will wake you up. A word of caution: if you mishandle the plug, you could get a mild shock. If you have yellow spark, try a new spark plug. If you see spark, is it blue or yellow? Blue spark is good. You may have to cup your hand to provide a shadow. While the bike is being kicked over, look inside the spark plug to see if you can see a spark jump across the gap. Hold the threaded portion of the spark plug against a cylinder head nut and have a friend kick the engine over. Remove the spark plug from the cylinder head and pop it back into the spark plug cap. The quickest way to find out if it’s electrical is to check the plug for spark. In most cases, if your bike absolutely refuses to start, the problem is electrical. Replace the piston and rings not only will the bike start, but you’ll also appreciate the new horsepower. If you’ve raced your bike nonstop for six months and it suddenly refuses to start, it’s because the piston and rings have become so loose they don’t seal against the cylinder tightly enough to create suction. Your bike relies on the vacuum created by the piston and rings to suck fuel and air into the motor. IT COULD BE DEADĪnother possible reason for a dry spark plug is worn-out piston rings. Dirt, small pieces of debris or pieces of plastic flashing (from the gas tank) can clog the needle and seat. If you can’t feel air moving through the system when the float bowl is all the way down, or feel it shut off when the floats are lifted up, then the needle-and-seat are jammed. I have the plugs out now and going to clean with brake cleaner as well as cylinders per Rodzim’s advice.(2) Hold the carb upright and blow in the fuel line while moving the floats up and down. I did have the air filter off and I don’t know if it really matters.Īlso d:55 tested out ok but also shows 2.0 Mine started at 98 but the value did not change when I pushed the start switch. (If the dis- play value changes, the performance is Ok.” Set the engine stop switch to “ ”, and then push the start switch “ ”. Maybe someone here has experience with these? No fault shown on anything and fault history is clear, but two tests seemed a little confusing to me. ‘Front and back coils test ok as well as injectors. I just finished going through the entire diagnostics mode and it was pretty cool once I got the hang of it. I'm all out of ideas and I think I may be out of my league. ![]() I managed to get the back right plug cross threaded and now I am waiting on a 12mm back tap thread repair tool to be delivered tomorrow so I can replace the last plug before I trailer it to the dealer. I still wonder if clogged injectors may be "dripping" gas and not spraying it? Plugs were also wet with gas from previous starting attempts, so I have to assume gas is being delivered. I went back home and pulled the plugs again and did a visual inspection for spark. It showed 12.77 volts and 297 cold cranking amps with the needle pegged out on the good side. The battery compartment was clean and dry. I removed the 18 month old battery and took it to Batteries plus to be tested just in case. I checked all of the electrical connectors that I could reach- all seemed clean and dry. I could smell starter fluid coming from the exhaust pipes. I shot a bit of starter fluid into the intake and felt for vacuum. I tried the bike and it would crank but not fire. This morning I re-checked all of the fuses and sprayed a little starter fluid into the cylinders before replacing the plugs. I hoped to dry out the cylinders and any water that could possibly be hiding anywhere on the bike from last weeks rinsing. I chickened out on filling the cylinders but left the plugs out overnight in the garage with a fan blowing on the bike. Starting yesterday I cleaned and dried the (new) NGK DPR7EA-9 plugs with brake cleaner. ![]()
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